Wednesday 11 June 2014

Audi Fashion Festival Post Mortem

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POV from the Asia Fashion Smmit 2014. No nonsense business(of fashion!)
Hello ,lovelies! As usual, I took my occasional breaks in between posts, BUT with good reason! I don't know whether you know, but I've recently joined the fashion team at Popspoken.com, albeit I havent written anything for them as of yet. I still hold my stint at poachedmag.com, and it's been going great. As a writer for a magazine, there is more pressure and expectation for you to produce well thought-out pieces. That being said, it comes with a price- that I channel all of my good pitches to them, and not my blog. Now some would ask "Why not just post all your good stuff on your own blog and grow your following there?". This question isn't an easy one to aswer, but it's definitely valid. The way I see it, the almost "selfish" desire to have people come to my blog is outweighed by my need to have people reach my writing.
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Dresscamp fashion show at Audi Fashion Festival
In short, I prioritize my outreach, and not where I reach out from. It can be from here or, it can be on vogue.com. Where my content goes really doesn't matter, it's whether I get to share my insight with the world that counts. I started writing fashion for one simple reason: the world needs a better opinion, one that takes on a refined stance on issues that matter. Nobody gives a flying S*** about the top ten street style looks. I'll leave that to the "pretentious" blogs of yesteryear to cover. I'm perfectly fine blogging about LVMH's futile attempt at trying to acquire Hermes and what not. To me, that is real fashion blogging: intelligent opinions. 
But still, i don't want you guys to think I've died or disappeared into oblivion. And for that, I'll share with you one of my latest pieces from poachedmag.com. I hope you enjoy my musings, and I hope you continue to support me as well as other intelligent fashion blogs that promote proper fashion journalism(no tea no shade, bobo) 
For those of you that don’t follow the flow of fashion here, not too long ago Singapore became the buzzing epicentre of regional fashion for one week. Commonly known to fashion insiders as theAsian Fashion Exchange (AFX), this annual event consists of the Audi Fashion Festival (AFF), the  Blueprint tradeshow, Audi Star Creation and the Asian Fashion Summit (AFS).
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From the bright, blinding lights of the runway to thought-provoking discussions on online shopping,Poached Mag was there to witness just how much Singapore has grown from being another typical consumer hub to a blossoming fashion destination not to be taken lightly. And what would fashion week be without a few industry big wigs and celebrities gracing the event?  The stellar lineup of shows included the likes of New York-based designer Prabal Gurung, revered fashion royalty Oscar De la Renta, and AFF mainstay Desigual. To further add flavour to the mix, AFF had an injection of emerging names like Ong Shunmugan (Singapore) and Thomas Tait (London), who have won the grand award at the Design for Asia Awards 2013 and the 2014 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award respectively. Needless to say, we were bolting back and forth from after-parties to runway shows.
As if the guest list wasn’t star-studded enough, AFF also had in attendance actress Kate Bosworthand even had Canadian-Taiwanese Supermodel Godfrey Gao walk for one of the shows. We’ll be serving roundups for all the days of AFF, which is why we’ll start with Powerhouse Prabal Gurung, who opened the festival with his women’s Fall/Winter 2014 presentation.
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Paying homage to New York-based British contemporary painter Cecily Brown, Gurung’s collection was redolent of an opulent, intricately woven tapestry (probably inspired by his Nepalese lineage as well). With his models walking to the music of drum beats, Gurung’s silhouettes were reminiscent of the Himalayan landscapes, with undulating drapery that takes after Cecily’s distinct brushstrokes.
Copious yards of plush knit decorated the models as they strutted down the runway, reminding everyone why Gurung is currently New York’s designer darling. Born in Singapore but raised in Kathmandu, he started his design career in New Delhi before moving to New York to complete his stint at Parsons the New School of Design. Now, his designs are worn by the likes of the Duchess of Cambridge, Michelle Obama and Zoe Saldana.
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One might then ask why he decided to show in Singapore, besides the fact that he was born here. The handsome designer credits his decision to show for AFF to Carolina Herrera, who opened the Audi Fashion Festival last year. He cites Singapore’s growing affluence for quality fashion as well as our propensity for luxury goods as one of the key reasons why Singapore is a crucial country to have a presence in.
We are then left to think about Singapore’s importance as a fashion hub. Chanel has already hosted a show here (with exclusivity, no doubt), Hermès had their “Men on the Move” exhibition here not too long ago, and Calvin Klein even held the unveiling of their architectural installation in the former Kallang Airport Hanger. We aren’t just another shopping destination, yet we’re not a fully-fledged fashion capital just yet.  There's alot of work that needs to be done, but I'll be damned if we're not on the right path to becoming one soon! 

Sunday 16 February 2014

Award season special : the 2014 Golden Globe Awards

DoD is once again ready to get back on the fashion saddle, And what better way to express my (perceived)sovereignty than an update laced with puns made in bad taste. Do try to mask your apathy, as I hold your hand *caresses-the-space-in-between-your-fingers-ever-so-gently* and guide you through my thoughts on how 2014 started(it's freakin' February already!) ; Beginning with the oh-so-superficial Award shows we all love dearly.


Not being sarcastic , but I honestly feel that Gabourey Sidibe is gorgeous. The woman is confident, she knows she's got it.  Still a little bitter over her not being supreme on AHS:Coven though. Doesn't she looks radiant!

Judging from the layers of dust that has settled into a sizable dune on top of 2014's first few award shows(as well as my blog HA HA) , I think it's only fair that I give my  moderately snide judgments on who's wearing what at where and when.  But here's the catch- I don't want to make this post a depiction of adversarial intent amongst the bevy of accredited actresses & actors. It's a totally different ball game now, and here's why .

If you don't know this about me, I am an fervent supporter of the women's rights moment(YUP!AND PROUD OF IT!) . After recently reading a post about how often we objectify women in even the slightest of indiscretions (Click HERE to read the post on Jezebel.com. Good stuff!) , I've decided to make it a point not to pin anyone against each other (because that my friends is a form of objectifying people). Instead of ridiculing the person, I'll redirect my profanities/praise towards the designers! Thrusting the ball of shame around has always been a much-loved sport amongst the good people of fashion, so we're not doing anything out of the ordinary.  
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SPOILER ALERT: LUPITA NYONG'O IS ON THE LIST. BECAUSE SHE IS RED HOT



Jennifer Lawrence!



Up first is Internet Darling Jennifer Lawrence. Usually for these high profile events, most actresses would opt for high octane fashion with billowing skirts in lieu of the usual silhouette. Jennifer Lawrence decided to forgo this unspoken dogma, and wear this thing. Our Dame in Dior took home the award for best supporting actress in a musical or comedy for American hustle(congrats, sayang!),knocking out THE CLEARLY DESERVING up and coming Talent Lupita Nyong'oI can't really tell whether the waist down is tool or some form of chiffon, but it looks downright lumpy and rather distasteful. After having virtually worn every conceivable piece of clothing ever crafted by The Dior Couture house, JLaw became the tasty bait of choice for the plethora of online fashion critics that can't wait to call her out on her fashion faux pas. Personally, this high-fashion ensemble did not translate well on carpet. "I'm wearing Dior. I wanted to surprise, do a shocker, you know?" she sarcastically told red carpet interviewer Ryan Seacrest. But She definitely deserves credit for "taking a risk"





Having signed a contract with Raf in Blood, this girl on fire has been burning blue lately. Already the face of dior for a bevy of their ads, it disappoints me because she is IMMENSELY BEAUTIFUL and beyond capable of any look. The make up was spot on though, with an exquiste Roger Vivier Clutch to boot!(or minaudiere, if you're feeling extra pretentious today). She's OKAY LAH.
I give her dress a 6/10

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Olivia Wilde
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The Golden globes had a few ladies walk down its carpet, and some happen to have special cargo on board. Sporting her baby bump loud and proud is our resident dame  Olivia Wilde from this year's most poignant romance feature"Her". Unbeknownst to a few, Olivia starred along side Chris Pine in a Cinematic work of art about the undeniable connection between siblings(and family) called "People Like Us". I highly recommend it, but be prepared to scream at the screen when the brother almost kisses his own sister(Woops. Spoiler) . If you're wondering how to get the maternity glam look down to a tee, look no further than Olivia Wilde donning this shimmering emerald Gucci Gown. I think we can all agree that she was probably one of the top three best dressed women there! 
An easy 9/10

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Zoe Saldana

My Spicy Saldana from another mama packed a punch with this busy piece from Prabal Gurung. Truth be told, I initially thought this dress was beyond ugly. It reminded me of when Lindsay Lohan did a collection for Ungaro. Total train wreck. But as I spent less time scrutinizing the minuscule details and paid more attention to the entire dress, I began to appreciate its eccentricity. Very few dresses are able to transit from runway to roadside and still remain Catwalk chic. What makes it worth its weigh in gold is that Prabal had Miss Saldana in mind when he was designing this understated masterpiece. And though she wasn't nominated for any accolades, she did present a few awards along side Comedian Aziz Ansari and Olivia Wilde. Good company, No?
For its unorthodox appeal, this look gets a 9.5/10

Michelle Dockery

Nude show: Downton Abbey star Michelle Dockery wore a beige Oscar De La Renta gown to the Golden Globes on Sunday night

Downton Abbey's Michelle dockery has been hitting home runs with her fashion choices ever since the show's meteoric rise to mainstream success. In her Sequined Oscar De La Renta Mullet Hem Dress,  she's what they call "a True English Rose"- Skin as fair as snow, lips as red(OR blood orange?)as a rose, and hair as gorgeous as a Drag queen's weave. It's an unsurprising fact that Michelle and Lupita Nyong'o Share the same secret weapon- their stylist Micaela Erlanger. Someone better keep an eye out for that one, because she's been dressing everyone up in the best garbs money can buy! That being said, the dress ins't that groundbreaking. 
7/10 is my verdict

Camilla Alves(baby bump and all!)

Matthew McConaughey is one lucky man to have this gorgeous mermaid draped in a sea of ebony sequins as his wife. Camilla Alves, much like Olivia Wilde, brought her baby bump front and center for the world to see.  This Miracle was made in the Ateliers of Dolce&Gabanna(when they're not avoid tax evasions), and I must say they've really made black the new black. Staring at its train is like staring into the deep night sky. With only her neck and hands bare, she was still one of the sexiest women there. Which really goes to show how showing more skin doesn't necessarily mean something is more sexy. 
I award Lady Camilla Alves with a score of 10/10 


Sofia Vergara 

When I was still working for Harper's Bazaar as their fashion intern, I would laugh with the neighboring intern from Cleo about Sofia's fashion sense. According to her, Cleo's editors hate her because all she ever wore were dresses that accentuated her "prime real estate". Which isn't really that far from the truth, but hey it's her basic right to choose what she wears. All i can say is that this Zac Posen dress maked her look like Ursula from the Little Mermaid. And I love Zac for all the wonderful work he's been doing. The man really does explore the frontiers of his own creative limitations, something most designers attempt but to no avail. I'm just not feeling good vibes from this one( even though websites like the huffpost say she looks gorgeous. Really?) 
A 6/10 at best

Gabourey Sidibe
Gabourey Sidibe

There's probably over a billion words in the English language, and yet I can't string together a sentence that would succinctly encapsulate how I feel about Gabourey Sidibe. She's confident, and radiates a commanding aura. This Precious starlet has since taken off and dominated the small screen with her latest role as Queenie, the human Voodoo Doll of American Horror Story:Coven(THIS SHOW IS SO BAD ASS!!!!!!) But apparently some assholes on the internet decided that being a strong and confident woman is just wrong. So they mustered all their courage, and posted vapid comments about her choice of dressing. To which Miss Sidibe replied via twitter, "To people making mean comments about my GG pics, I mos def cried about it on that private jet on my way to my dream job last night. #JK," . This Michael Costello Gown however feels a little too prom-ish. 
Wish I could do better. but it's a 7/10 

And lastly, Taking home the Gold is Lupita Nyong'O!


Like most cliches I try to adhere to, I saved the best for last. Every year, One undisputed breakout star will garner the attention of the masses with his/her artistic talent along with impeccable sense of dressing. It-girl Lupita Nyong'o slayed the competition with this BADASS Floor length Crimson Red Cape Gown from Ralph Lauren. The 12 years a slave actress did not go home with the award for best supporting actress in a motion picture(although she should have!), but definitely won best dressed that night. As mentioned earlier, This work of art was styled by Micaela Erlanger of whom serves as a stylist to both Lupita Nyong'o and Michelle Dockery. When asked by New york Magazine about her fashion sense, she said "I don't know why, but I like to keep that part of it very intimate and very small.".   Down to earth and immensely talented, I can't wait to see the kinds of tricks Micaela Has up her sleeves for Lupita. 
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So I guess I've come to the end of this soliloquy about style. In all honesty, I took more than 2 weeks to write this article. AND it's not that I'm having a hard time expressing my thoughts, it's just that I've been really really lazy with my writing. As fas as literature is concerned, I have been avoiding writing more and more. But by doing so, I feel less special. It was the one skill I fabricated to feel special. And now it's waning away. Hopefully all that will change now. 

Anywho, I hope you've had fun reading my thoughts on the golden globes. I personally would rather be an actor walking down the red carpet for an award nomination that actually style or design any of the clothing. It's the allure of being in the lime light that really intrigues me, rather than the reclusive gratification of a designer who knows his designs are red-carpet worthy. As far as holidays are concerned, I wish everyone a wonderful month ahead.  But really though, I apologize for my frequent periods of inactivity. Inspiration to write comes and goes, and my constant lethargy doesn't do me any favors(forgive me?). Better let than never, no? Thank you for reading, till we meet again. 

- Sam of Dreamofdior 



Monday 13 January 2014

Of Boys and Men



It goes without saying that Menswear plays a prominent role in the industry of shirts, shoes and what have you. But are we really allowing menswear to freely explore the peripheries of design like how we do with womenswear? London Collections: Men, organized by the British fashion council( I tried interning with them before haha), though still in its infancy, appears to have finally found that long lost missing algorithm to this  equation that is Men’s Fashion Week.  With heavyweights like Jonathan Saunders and Burberry Prorsum leading the British fashion pact, here are a few standout collections that hit the ground running in London.

Jonathan Saunders 









Ever the iconoclast, Jonathan Saunders went above and beyond ergonomics, and tinkered with the aspect of elevation; by installing into his collection vinyl hobby heels that made his models tower.  The attention to detail, like his emphasis on the couch-floral jacquards, leather tops, and sweaters with matching wraps, exuded an almost-saccharine hearty vibe. I personally think they look like effeminate men waiting on the benches of a cricket game. 
Saunders said his inspiration for the collection originated from the Eighties. “A time period that was about freedom of expression…when no one had any money”, said Saunders. Very much about juxtaposition, Jonathan Saunders opted for contrast in his color palette, by patronizing hues of petrol blue and olive green.

Alexander McQueen
Embodying the cardinal values of eccentricities that Alexander Lee Mcqueen stood for, his Eponymous label, with Sarah burton at its helm, churned out a monochromatic masterpiece that was reminiscent of an urban wasteland. Held in the deconsecrated and derelict Welsh Church, the melancholic atmosphere provided the perfect backdrop for Burton’s perfectly tailored elongated double breasted coats, some with gold lamé fabric stripped across for that added illusion of lackluster decadence. Inspired by the works of John Deakin whom shot the Soho Art scene in the 50s,Burton’s collection was a pleasant nod towards the era of rebellion and counterculture.

 Stunningly prominent in this collection were the three piece kilt suits with military style jackets and trousers, but what really stood out were the pieces in McQueen’s synonymous Tartan Fabric.  Theatrically charged and dramatic right down to the lighting, Mcqueen had its singular moments with its display of bespoke tailoring in the form of dark suits embellished with geometric patterns.


Burberry Prorsum
Occupying two of the most crucial positions in Burberry’s higher echelons, its CEO and Creative director Christopher bailey did not hold back with his artistic display of sublime tailoring and drapery. Titled “A Painterly Journey”, the collection had cultural references dating back to Britain’s 20-century painters were stark and blatantly expressed, as it should be, in the color palette as well as the structure. Cropped suit jackets were juxtaposed with languid equestrian blankets that slung over the shoulders like obscuring capes.

A plethora of texture was seen in Bailey’s use of Silk for their printed white shirts, while their bags were decked in leather and suede. Christopher noted that the collection sprang from the imagery of a “painter on a journey, romantic painters with a masculine point of view”.  Despite having more than enough layers, bailey Managed to find a subtle balance to avoid the chunky aesthetic.  Whether worn or draped across, his fluid trench coats and long, painted flowered scarfs are all anyone will talk about. No doubt, One of the best collections by Bailey thus far. 

Just saying, I'm crushing super hard on this chinese guy. Adorbz!




KTZ





Inspired by his obsession for the Holy men of India; commonly known as the sahdu, who smear themselves with Ashes, as well as the sublime imagery of explorers hiking up the Himalayas, Marjan Pejoski managed to materialize his concept of a winter collection that had indian dressing imbued in each strand of string. “Spiritual and secular, something old and something modern”, was what the Bali-Based designer cited as his inspiration for the collection.  Truly, his showcase of Menswear brought forward a contemporary approach to men and their winter wear trends.





The clothes had an icy indigenous (almost alien) aura that radiated around it, what with Pejoski’s choice of a clean and pristine white, and sinister black colour palette. Layered to perfection, every look was a voluminous shape of intricate quilting and padding. Some mimicked the look of mysterious monks, with their heads shrouded in Pejoksi’s occult-looking hoods.  Another aspect of interest that Pejoski allowed to permeate the collection was the sport of Hockey. Billowing Sports pants in mimetic monochrome as well as overscaled bomber jackets were prominent enough to make any man enter into a trance.





Quite honestly, I beamed with pride when I realized how much of an impact Men's Fashion week is having on the progress and incline of our dear fashion darlings( I will sayang you forever and ever, KTZ).  With a concrete platform like the London Collections:Men to inspire and spur innovation among designers, we'll soon be swimming in more style trends than we can manage. 

So I know I've been missing out on the action a whole lot lately. That being said, I explored what it meant to be a blogger as compared to being a fashion writer. These two titles no doubt operate on a tangent, both having similar scopes of interest.  However, the purpose of a blogger is intrinsic, whereas a fashion writer's drive is extrinsic. 

He writes for the publication, whereas a blogger, in ever sense of the word, writes for HIMSELF. Being one that never really preferred the vanity of it all, I chose to adopt the latter title. Initially, it felt like a natural progression; I hone my skills as a writer through blogging, and eventually ascend to writer status. But that, as I've come to terms with, is not the case. 

A blogger is singular and expresses his/her interest, independent of anyone else's opinion. He is brave, enough to approach and command others to notice him. As a blogger, he must treed the waters between being an introverted personality and an extroverted social butterfly. 

I admit, I may have forsaken a few blessings I had as a blogger. Atleast now I realize where my attention should be targeted to. At least now, I know how hard my mantle is; how many hits I can take before I start to give way.

So without further ado, here's to being a blogger again. Here's to being who I was all this time.